Ruta Maya 5 – Day of the Iguana

After saying goodbye to our generous and wonderful host Lance, Case and I hotfooted it onto the bus to Belize’s northern border. It took us a while to fill out all the forms and get all the right stamps, but eventually we were set free to wander the Mexican wonderland that is Mexico.

Orange-Walk-to-Tulum

In one week Casey had been to more countries than she’d been to in her lifetime. What can I say? This is what happens when you hang out with Graham Hughes for too long. Eh? Eh? Amirite??!

BOOM!

SO THEN onto Tulum, which is the name of both the Mayan ruins and also the town near the ruins. We arrived just before dark, found a nice backpackers to hang our hats for the night and went for a mooch.

Main Street, Tulum
Why did I expect everything to be sepia?

The town revolved around the main road, a sandy old stretch flanked with a parade of shops either side. A bit of a tourist trap, but they had an awesome ice-cream place so we weren’t complaining.

Ice cream shop, Tulum, Mexico
Ice cream is always good.

The next day we explored the town and took the opportunity to walk to the ruins (a little further than we had estimated) without actually going in to see them. We then checked out the adjacent beach. Being gingers, we didn’t hang around on the beach for long before grabbing a taxi back to town. Watching far too many episodes of House of Cards had led us to a inexplicable desire for ribs, and we found some, but they weren’t great.

Unlike us, we’re pretty great. For gingers.

What was great was the TOTAL LUNAR ECLIPSE that night (April 14/15, 2014). Casey and I stayed up late, filming it with our cameras, taking pics and generally enjoying the show.

Total Lunar Eclipse April 15 2014
A DRAGON HAS EATEN THE MOOOOOON!! Give it back! Naughty dragon.

The next morning we had to be up with the lark (a lazy lark) in order to get over to Tulum Ruins before the crowds arrived. We didn’t do such a Stirling job of that, but what we did find was that most of the Mexican families headed straight for the bit of private beach that lies beneath the ancient acropolis – so we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Well, us and the insane number of iguanas standing guard over the old town.

Iguana standing guard at Tulum, Mexico
The Silent Sentinel

Tulum (Yucatec: Tulu’um) is the site of a Pre-Columbian Maya walled city serving as a major port for Cobá. The ruins are situated on 12-meter (39 ft) tall cliffs, along the east coast of the Yucatán Peninsula on the Caribbean Sea in the state of Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Tulum, Mexico - Overlooking the sea
Nice view eh?

Tulum was one of the last cities inhabited and built by the Mayas; it was at its height between the 13th and 15th centuries and managed to survive about 70 years after the Spanish began occupying Mexico. Old World diseases brought by the Spanish settlers appear to have been the cause of its demise. One of the best-preserved coastal Maya sites, Tulum is today a popular site for tourists.

Tulum, Mexico
Although my camera helpfully deletes them for me

The Maya site may formerly have been known by the name Zama, meaning City of Dawn, because it faces the sunrise. Tulum stands on a bluff facing east towards the Caribbean Sea. Tulúm is also the Yucatan Mayan word for fence, wall or trench, and the walls surrounding the site allowed the Tulum fort to be defended against invasions.

Tulum Ruins, Mexico
Walls always help.

Tulum had access to both land and sea trade routes, making it an important trade hub, especially for obsidian. From numerous depictions in murals and other works around the site, Tulum appears to have been an important site for the worship of the Diving or Descending god. Tulum had an estimated population of 1,000 to 1,600 inhabitants.

Tulum Ruins, Mexico
And this was their local Wal-Mart

Tulum was first mentioned by Juan Díaz, a member of Juan de Grijalva’s Spanish expedition of 1518, the first Europeans to spot Tulum. The first detailed description of the ruins was published by John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood in 1843 in the book Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. As they arrived from the sea, Stephens and Catherwood first saw a tall building that impressed them greatly, most likely the great Castillo of the site. They made accurate maps of the site’s walls, and Catherwood made sketches of the Castillo and several other buildings. Stephens and Catherwood also reported an early classic stele at the site, with an inscribed date of AD 564 (now in the British Museum’s collection), which is interpreted to mean that it was most likely built elsewhere and brought to Tulum to be reused.

Temple Detail, Tulum, Mexico
Courtesy of the British Museum. Probably.

Work conducted at Tulum continued with that of Sylvanus Morley and George P. Howe, beginning in 1913. They worked to restore and open the public beaches.

Beach at Tulum, Mexico
Good job!

The work was continued by the Carnegie Institution from 1916 to 1922, Samuel Lothrop in 1924 who also mapped the site, Miguel Ángel Fernández in the late 1930s and early 1940s, William Sanders in 1956, and then later in the 1970s by Arthur G. Miller. Through these investigations done by Sanders and Miller it has been determined that Tulum was occupied during the late Postclassic period around AD 1200. The site continued to be occupied until contact with the Spanish was made in the early 16th century. By the end of the 16th century the site was abandoned completely.

Iguana overlooking the beach at Tulum, Mexico
Well, not completely.

Tulum has architecture typical of Maya sites on the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. This architecture is recognized by a step running around the base of the building which sits on a low substructure. Doorways of this type are usually narrow with columns used as support if the building is big enough. As the walls flare out there are usually two sets of molding near the top. The room usually contains one or two small windows with an altar at the back wall, roofed by either a beam-and-rubble ceiling or being vaulted. This type of architecture resembles what can be found in the nearby Chichen Itza, just on a much smaller scale.

Tulum Ruins, Mexico
Probs too busy chillin’ out at the beach to go full Chichén.

Tulum was protected on one side by steep sea cliffs and on the landward side by a wall that averaged about three to 5 meters (16 ft) in height. The wall also was about 8 m (26 ft) thick and 400 m (1,300 ft) long on the side parallel to the sea. The part of the wall that ran the width of the site was slightly shorter and only about 170 meters (560 ft) on both sides. Constructing this massive wall would have taken an enormous amount of energy and time, which shows how important defence was to the Maya when they chose this site. On the southwest and northwest corners there are small structures that have been identified as watch towers, showing again how well defended the city was. There are five narrow gateways in the wall with two each on the north and south sides and one on the west. Near the northern side of the wall a small cenote provided the city with fresh water. It is this impressive wall that makes Tulum one of the most well-known fortified sites of the Maya.

Tulum watchtower and sea, Mexico
Try getting up them rocks with a thousand angry Mayans bearing down on you from above.

There are three major structures of interest at the Tulum site. El Castillo, the Temple of the Frescoes, and the Temple of the Descending God are the three most famous buildings. Among the more spectacular buildings here is the Temple of the Frescoes that included a lower gallery and a smaller second story gallery. The Temple of the Frescoes was used as an observatory for tracking the movements of the sun. Niched figurines of the Maya “diving god” or Venus deity decorate the facade of the temple. This “diving god” is also depicted in the Temple of the Diving God in the central precinct of the site. Above the entrance in the western wall a stucco figure of the “diving god” is still preserved, giving the temple its name. A mural can still be seen on the eastern wall that resembles that of a style that originated in highland Mexico, called the Mixteca-Puebla style, though visitors are no longer permitted to enter.

Mayan art example, Tulum, Mexico
Probs looked a bit like this…

Also in the central precinct is the Castillo, which is 7.5 m (25 ft) tall. The Castillo was built on a previous building that was colonnaded and had a beam and mortar roof. The lintels in the upper rooms have serpent motifs carved into them. The construction of the Castillo appears to have taken place in stages. A small shrine appears to have been used as a beacon for incoming canoes. This shrine marks a break in the barrier reef that is opposite the site. Here there is a cove and landing beach in a break in the sea cliffs that would have been perfect for trading canoes coming in. This characteristic of the site may be one of the reasons the Maya founded the city of Tulum exactly here, as Tulum later became a prominent trading port during the late Postclassic.

Castillo, Tulum, Mexico
The Castillo

Both coastal and land routes converged at Tulum which is apparent by the number of artifacts found in or near the site that show contacts with areas all over Central Mexico and Central America. Copper artifacts from the Mexican highlands have been found near the site, as have flint artifacts, ceramics, incense burners, and gold objects from all over the Yucatán.

We’re just here for the gold.

After a long hot day with no water (seriously Tulum GET A CONCESSION STAND) we headed back to the town to pick up our bags. It was time for the next stage of our Ruta Maya – Coba.

Leave a Reply

Your e-mail address will not be published. Required fields are marked *